SLIDE SHOW: Madrid's Renegade Picnics

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Photo by Maggie Schmitt


Fritada is a pork dish typical of the mountainous center of Ecuador though known throughout the country.


Maggie Schmitt joins Ecuadorian families at one of


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Photo by Maggie Schmitt


The vendors shouting, " Caldo de manguera !" is enough to make an Ecuadorian friend from the coastal region weepy with homesickness. Manguera is a blood sausage typical of Guayaquil, served in caldo (broth).


Maggie Schmitt joins Ecuadorian families at one of


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Photo by Maggie Schmitt


Crowds gather to share food, music, anecdotes, and advice, and one small corner of Madrid is transformed into an ephemeral little Quito.


Maggie Schmitt joins Ecuadorian families at one of


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Maggie Schmitt

The income made by selling food in the park on weekends is an important supplement to low salaries. Here a woman fries plantains.

Maggie Schmitt joins Ecuadorian families at one of


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Maggie Schmitt

The uncontested star of the show is the hornado , a succulent pork roast.

Maggie Schmitt joins Ecuadorian families at one of


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Photo by Maggie Schmitt


For just a few euros, an overflowing plate of hornado with mote , salad, and more, as well as a bowl of encebollado , a fish and onion stew served with crispy fried corn and plantains and famous as a hangover cure.


Maggie Schmitt joins Ecuadorian families at one of


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Maggie Schmitt

When the police appeared, this pan of boiling oil for frying plantains and empanadillas elegantly and instantly disappeared. How? Where? I couldn't ask because the saleswoman had vanished as well. Learn more here.

Maggie Schmitt joins Ecuadorian families at one of


Maggie Schmitt is a freelance researcher and translator based in Madrid.  She is currently working on a book called The Gaza Kitchen with Laila El-Haddad. Learn more at gazakitchens.wordpress.com.