Corby Kummer
A Cake Obsession
TREE CAKE Mimi Sheraton, a writer I always read with pleasure, finds new sources for an old cake that once obsessed me.read moreSave the Bluefin Tuna--But Don't Forget Herring
RED LINE FOR HERRING It's not just bluefin tuna that's being overfished. It's the fish tuna eats--and I want to eat too.read moreThe Uma Thurman of Pears
ESSENCE OF PEAR Zeke's post reminds me of my own favorite pear--and the tragedy of not being able to find it at home.read moreLast of the Great Green Beans
LAST OF THE ROMANOS My favorite green beans are at end-of-season farmer's markets. Try them with this secret sauce.read moreRecipes
Nov 9 2009, 6:45 amRecipe: Insalata di Fagiolini Verdi (Italian Green Bean Salad)
You can cook the beans an hour or two ahead, but don't dress them more than 30 minutes before serving or the vinegar will alter their color.read moreWho Should Eat Meat?
THE MEAT GOES ON First Foer and McWilliams on my Austin panel; now Niman, York, and everybody else on the site.read moreThe All-Candy Diet
ALL-CANDY DIET Yes, it can be done, and leftovers give you the excuse--especially if they include any new Neccos.read moreThe Secret To Fresh Milk and Coffee
SOMETHING IN THE AIR Paul Wachter's post about milk's shelf life brings me back to coffee (as everything important does).read moreWild Mushrooms and Wild Hunts
WILD MUSHROOMS AND WILD HUNTS It's fall after a wet summer, so the pickings are lush--and, as always, risky.read moreThe Food Critic In the Internet Age
WELCOME, SAM SIFTON The anticipation of the new Times restaurant critic left out the big question.read moreCongrats, James Bennet
CONGRATS, JAMES BENNET A little non-food news that's good for the enterprise: our boss is named Editor of the Year.read moreA New Apple A Day
A NEW APPLE A DAY Zeke's DC tasting was extensive; I found a fine New York State Spartan (and a too-good caramel tart).read moreYes, Calorie Labeling Works
YES, CALORIE LABELING WORKS Look first at food companies and the changes they're making, then at people.read moreRemembering Johnny Apple
APPLE DAY The best heirloom of all--the late great Johnny, whose skill as a reporter and writer made food writing festive fun.read moreDon't RIP, Gourmet--Come Back Soon
DON'T RIP, GOURMET--COME BACK SOON I refuse to believe Gourmet will be gone for long. But it's terrible news.read moreMore on Green Walnuts
GREEN WALNUTS, WHITE SAUCE It's the famous chiles en nogada that use the walnuts I drove over in Napa.read moreFallows on Fat People
FALLOWS ON FAT PEOPLE Not really Jim Fallows, but a sampling of letters he received about obesity in America.read moreGreen Walnuts, Purple Plums
GREEN WALNUTS, PURPLE PLUMS I was in Napa and St. Helena for just 36 hours, but left hauling home produce.read moreWhere Hunger is a Way of Life
HUNGRY ALL THE TIME In Kenya, the food is strange, dry, unpalatable. But at least the author, an expat, has it.read moreVote For Necco!
VOTE FOR NECCO! The Massachusetts legislature will consider naming it the state candy. It recently got better, even.read moreFarmed Fish Forever?
FARMED FISH FOREVER Even if it's the future, how about flavor? At least there's still time for wild stuff, especially salmon. read moreParis Reacts to Julie & Julia
CULTURE CLASH The Paris opening of Julie & Julia has her great-niece saying who Mme. Brassart really was.read moreOrganic Agriculture's Future-and-Present Star
FUTURE FARMERS In a new Italian documentary and a Boston newspaper, high-school junior Sam Levin leads a movement.read moreLeaving a Legendary Restaurant
LEAVING A LEGENDARY RESTAURANT Grant Achatz quit his job to learn more about wine. Maybe more should, too.read moreDid You Go To An Eat-In?
DID YOU GO TO AN EAT-IN? If so, please report--and here's my report from the original, Woodstock launch, last Labor Day.read moreArrivederci Gelato: Proof that Airport Food Is Improving?
ARRIVEDERCI GELATO Leaving Rome and haven't had enough? There's a last-minute fix at the airport.read moreWhy He Was So, Well, Frank
WHY HE WAS SO, WELL, FRANK The moral of his self-revealing memoir isn't what you think, Bruni says.read moreOn the Menu: Dragon's Lingerie
DRAGON'S LINGERIE New York has a name for the beans Ana Sortun used in our Boston video. It's not as sexy.read moreNew Potatoes: Not Even Thin-Skinned
NOT EVEN THIN-SKINNED Not me, not you--new potatoes. Ana Sortun shows why they're her favorite on our new video.read moreJulia Liked It. She Really Liked It.
JULIA LIKED IT. SHE REALLY LIKED IT. Regina had nothing to worry about--just try that buttermilk praline sauce.read moreThe Tomato and Potato Killer: Late Blight Hits Home
LATE BLIGHT HITS HOME Four days after I visited Siena Farms and sniffed the green tomatoes, they were struck.read moreAndy, Jeffrey, and Woody Do Julia
ANDY, JEFFREY, AND WOODY DO JULIA When three future stars made three very demanding recipes. read moreCharm Of The Farm
CHARM OF THE FARM I should resist--but when it comes to Chris Kurth and his Siena Farms, I can't, as our new video shows.read moreFinger Food: Pretty Much Everything
FINGER FOOD "I've fallen into the wrong crowd," I told my disapproving brother. "Food people eat with their fingers."read moreJulie Talks
JULIE TALKS What's it like having adorable Amy Adams play the "you" reimagined by Nora Ephron? Complicated. read moreJulie & Julia Premiere: Starry in the Right Way
J&J PREMIERE: STARRY IN THE RIGHT WAY The stars you always hope to see: the cleverest people in New York.read moreZeke Is Back, (Unwillingly) In A Tuxedo
ZEKE IS BACK, (UNWILLINGLY) IN A TUX He points out that however swanky, rubber chicken is rubber chicken.read moreUnlike Guests, The Camera Never Lies
UNLIKE GUESTS, THE CAMERA NEVER LIES Susan Spungen is so good it didn't have to try, critics report.read moreBiscuits Conquer All
BISCUITS CONQUER ALL They're the secret weapon of love and friendship, as our new Natchez correspondent shows.read moreCoffee Glamour: Italians Do It Better
COFFEE GLAMOUR Faith tells us about espresso in a cocktail shaker, which reminds of my own heartthrob--granita.read moreFarmer's Market Mirage
MARKET MIRAGE As restaurant week gets underway, a New York sighting dashes hopes as only life on a movie set can.read moreI Love Lard, But...
I LOVE LARD, BUT... After a first look at Julie & Julia, I got a tip that would have sent Julia straight to the pie pans.read moreEven If You Can Stand the Heat
EVEN IF YOU CAN STAND THE HEAT Grant Achatz says what most chefs won't: getting out of the kitchen is essential.read moreForbidden Fruit
SPOTTED IN CHINATOWN The smelly but lush durian, now being scooped out on the streets of New York.read moreDecaf, Caf--Is It Really All Caf?
DECAF, CAF--IT'S ALL CAF So said a cynical friend when I was offering after-dinner coffee. Times are changing--slowly.read morePush An Atlantic Writer Around
PUSH AN ATLANTIC WRITER AROUND Don't say you haven't wanted to. Seize the moment--seize the summer.read moreTipping Really Isn't A City In China
TIPPING REALLY ISN'T A CITY IN CHINA Those Starbucks tip jars are right, Fallows confirms. Time to abolish tipping here?read moreI Want What They're Having
I WANT WHAT THEY'RE HAVING Grant Achatz goes into one of the inevitable dining emotions: envy.read moreCookies, Cheese, and a Panda at the Fancy Food Show
FANCY FOOD SHOW It has everything from rugelach to heat 'n' eat mussels to a panda hawking licorice.read moreBartending With and Without Booze
BARTENDING WITHOUT BOOZE Alcohol might be the next gluten, as Zeke on Charlie Trotter's new drinks suggests.read moreLobster, Lobster Everywhere
LOBSTER, LOBSTER EVERYWHERE A news item made me worry. I asked an expert and was happily surprised.read moreCheese, Chocolate, and BBQ For "Summer"
SOGGY SUMMER SOLSTICE Summer's here, so they say. Here are ways to enjoy it when it finally arrives.read moreChicken Tip: It Starts With A Cold Knife Tip
CHICKEN TIP I saw Ming Tsai do it, assisted by an amiable Governor Deval Patrick. It involves a cold steel knife tip.read moreWhy I'm Leaving the Oatmeal Wilderness
OATMEAL WORTH THE TIME I didn't have it this morning, though I gave it an hour. Seems only Ari's fave will do.read moreYes, You Have To See Food, Inc.
FOOD, INC. OPENS WIDE THIS WEEKEND Forty-five more ways to see it, forty-five fewer reasons to say you haven't.read moreYou Thought GMOs Were A Headache?
YOU THOUGHT GMOs WERE A HEADACHE Now comes word they might help get rid of wine hangover.read moreFood Stamps at the Farmers' Market
SUMMER OASES IN FOOD DESERTS One more encouraging sign of available fresh food during growing season.read moreThinking of a Kegerator Party This Weekend?
KEGERATOR PARTY THIS WEEKEND? Come to Jamaica Plain--or check out these refrigerator-recycling sites.read moreToday is Goatsday
GOATSDAY If Tuesday could be Bloomsday, why can't Thursday be goatsday? These three pieces should convince you.read moreSwine Flu, Avian Flu, and Factory Farms
SWINE FLU Sorry, H1N1. It's on everyone's lips, in my friends' kids' schools--and on factory farms. But not on your plate.read moreLocal Scones? For Starbucks, Not So Fast
LOCAL SCONES? NOT SO FAST My Starbucks dream stays alive--but gets a dose of realism from someone who knows.read moreTableside Service 2.0: Beyond Guacamole
NOW YOU SEE IT Grant Achatz has given a new meaning to tableside service--not to mention to plates and placemats.read moreThe Real Mediterranean Diet
YOGURT SPECTACULAR Aglaia Kremezi and I share an interest in Fage yogurt--except hers is familial, mine obsessive.read moreBetter Starbucks Food Can't Come Soon Enough
CAN'T COME SOON ENOUGH Starbucks announced it's reformulating all its baked goods. Coming: edible scones?read moreHighway to Heaven
HIGHWAY TO HEAVEN To a farmer's market, as close as many of us get in the summer--right on the Pike.read moreThe Milk Is Alive
THE MILK IS ALIVE Not another piece on the virtues of raw milk--this time with the sound of music.read moreMy Name Is Bagel
MY NAME IS BAGEL I was startled to see this placard at one of the Autogrill stands in Rome's Fiumicino airport.read moreI Brake For Bakeries
I BRAKE FOR BAKERIES In a story straight out of Frank Capra, rural New Hampshire rises up to rescue croissants.read moreTake That, Paris Cafe
PARIS, PERFECT? There are plenty of reasons to visit Paris. The coffee in France isn't one of them.read moreWhat's Fresh, Anyway?
WHAT'S FRESH, ANYWAY? Jerry Baldwin's post brings up the point: "fresh" might be the new "natural."read moreA Better--And Better-Tasting--Hot Dog
HOT DOGS Let's Be Frank hot dogs are nitrate-free and made from grass-fed, organic beef. They also taste great.read moreTaste Testing
TASTE TESTING Before I could say yes, Colleen McGlynn popped an incredible combination into my mouth.read moreInformed Choices
INFORMED CHOICES A proud spouse notes: Massachusetts becomes the second state to make calorie-labeling law.read moreCity Gives up Meat for One Day a Week
MEATLESS MANDATE Ghent has always been a different city, and today it's really different--it's Veggiedag.read moreTea on the Train
TEA ON THE TRAIN You never know what you'll find out on the monorail en route to the rental cars.read moreCoffee on the Brain
COFFEE ON THE BRAIN There were several pieces of good news about coffee and health in this Boston Globe piece.read moreThe Week in Review
BEARD AND BEYOND Quite a week in the food world! From the James Beard Awards on, here's what we did and learned.read morePhoto courtesy James Beard Foundation
Best Chef, Best Speech
BEST CHEF, BEST SPEECH Dan Barber ended the James Beard Awards ceremony with sober substance and generous joy.read moreThe Meat Did It, II
THE MEAT DID IT, II Beardfest report: Around-the-world chefs scarfing down Cesare Casella's "incomparable" salumi...read moreBeard Awards
BEARD AWARDS Boy was I surprised to hear my name last night. Here are links to work by my terrific colleagues.read morePhoto by Edoardo Fornaciari
Abroad
Apr 30 2009, 8:42 amThe King of Parma Hams
At a medieval estate, learning about culatello, considered by the people who make it to be the noblest proscuitto.read morePhoto by Edoardo Fornaciari
The King of Parma Hams
PARMA HAM At a medieval estate, learning about culatello, considered by its makers to be the noblest proscuitto.read moreThis Week on the Food Channel
WEEKEND READING A welcome-back list from the terrific kids who keep this site going, too good to keep to myself.read moreBacon With Everything
BACON I recently hogged credit for the most popular hors d'oeuvre at a superbly catered wedding: strips of plain bacon.read moreIn Italy, it's a One-Minute Cup
THE ONE-MINUTE CUP I'm in Italy right now, strictly working you understand, and espresso here is just that: fast.read moreTale of Two Dinners
THE MEAT DID IT I dined with Zeke at his disappointing dinner. I wasn't disappointed. Why? Whole 'nother tasting.read moreTrue Bravery in Food Writing
BRAVE Most every body who loves and writes food has some kind of problem or neurosis about it. Some admit it, some don't.read moreFinding a Place for Grace
A PLACE FOR GRACE Zeke Emanuel calls for a communal return to a blessing before meals. Your move: write one.read moreWere You on Vacation?
COFFEE "As soon as someone tells me what their favorite coffee is, I stop and ask, 'Were you on vacation?'"read moreTea, More Than Just a Political Prop
TEA This week's tea parties were about many things, but not tea. I change my blend every day, and don't need a party.read moreA Loving Water Dog Owner's Advice for the Obamas
DOGS The Obamas' wise choice of breed brings remembrances from Barbara Kafka about her own dog, Stubbs.read moreJoan Nathan's Gefilte Fish Recipe
RECIPE You can actually enjoy the tactile, if smelly, pleasures of making gefilte fish. Here's the recipe to go with the video.read moreSeder to Easter
SEDER TO EASTER Sally Schneider comes to the rescue with a holiday-spanning spring menu. And chocolate!read morePhoto by Anup Kaphle