Photo by Heather Sperling
The dictation doesn't stop with the menu format. Clearly, if we are so adamant about what you should eat, then certainly we have to determine how the courses are sequenced, encourage guests to eat things in a certain order and from a specific orientation, with a specific paired beverage and using specially designed utensils, in a manipulated environment. We have to carefully choose language to describe the food about to be consumed, and even engulf the guests with selected smells to evoke emotion reactions that enhance the overall experience and solidify the vision.
"Wait," you're thinking. "This isn't dining! This sounds more like a psychology experiment. Clockwork Orange perhaps?"
Admittedly, it can sound a bit absurd on paper.
So why do we do all this?
The truth lies in the experience. It is rare that in today's world we give ourselves completely to someone's idea, and I think this surrender of choice can provide some exciting and rewarding results. We have a very specific vision for the overall experience Alinea should provide. In order to see that realized by our guests, we need to make sure that all of the elements are in place to support the vision. We need to control the experience fully.
Part board game, part gastronomic language exercise, this idea provides a fun, entertaining, engaging way for guests to control their destiny for a single course.A few months ago, I started asking myself: is there a way to integrate choice into the menu while staying in control? Could it ultimately give us even more control, because the act inherently creates a new feeling and reaction? The idea I started bouncing around was essentially an "a la carte moment" in the midst of the tasting menu experience, which has previously been all about acquiescence and surrender. The aim is to give the diner a sense of freedom and control, which is a break in rhythm of the meal.
I was lucky enough to dine at the famous Kitcho restaurant in Kyoto while in Japan recently. This was my first foray into traditional kaiseki dining, and the experience was one of the best of my life. Rather then give you the play-by-play for the entire evening I want to focus on one course in particular that connected the contemporary and traditional dots for me. Midway through the meal, Andoni Luis Aduriz and I were given wooden mallets (not your typical eating utensil). The hostess explained that for the next course a large clay pot would be placed in the center of the long table. Andoni and I were to lead the group in a chant before using our mallets to break the clay and reveal the food inside. It was a fun, engaging activity that certainly elevated the tempo of the meal. The curiosity and excitement of the group peaked as they all participated in the experience vicariously.
Once the damage was done, the portions of fish, wrapped in layers of paper, a bamboo mat, and aromatic leaves, were removed from the destroyed vessel and served to the guest. I couldn't help but relate the event to a game of some sort. Sitting there eating the fish, I recalled the thoughts I had had months earlier involving the introduction of a similar concept to the meal at Alinea. After returning home from the trip I decided to pursue the idea aggressively, no doubt because of the enjoyment I experienced from being on the receiving end of this idea.
To help us achieve this we have developed the adjective concept. Part board game, part gastronomic language exercise, this idea provides a fun, entertaining, engaging way for guests to control their destiny for a single course.
Each guest at a table gets a card with four rows of six words. The rows are defined by characteristics. In the example below, from left to right: Row one is flavor, two is texture, three is emotionally driven, and four is temperature. As a group, the diners have to select one word from each category or row. Once the group has made a decision, they turn in their choices to the waiter. The waiter hands the choices to the kitchen, where we create a dish based on the guests' four choices. Soon after, the result of their choice--their exercise in limited free will--is served. Or will be.


It'll be very interesting to see the distribution of choices over time, particularly on the temperature scale. Will you get mostly extremes? (hot or cold choosers?). Will your diners understand Celsius temperatures?
Separately, Chef, did you happen to get to Yoshi Takazawa's restaurant? Personally, I think his restaurant is a very interesting example of a carefully crafted dining environment.
Renn
Grant,
This is a phenomenal idea! Providing guests with some element of control while still being able to control the dishes that come out!
While I have not had the good fortune to visit Alinea yet, I'll hope that this only becomes an optional part of the menu (or perhaps just one to two courses of the menu) as I personally still prefer a well thought out guided menu when I visit Alinea.
Grant,
My thinking is this: guests will ultimately want to know which is the best option (at least in the opinion of their peers) and will actively seek that out. In essence, you'll be democratizing your food.
Grant,
not only are you a talent in the kitchen, but - who knew! - a gifted writer, too. And in a way, I think the "game" you describe began even before you introduced this novel idea at Alinea, if you've done so already.
I believe the game actually began as you tweeted your thoughts on how to make it work. I'm sure that as you brainstormed on twitter, lots and lots of feedback flooded your reply box. Although the "a la carte moment" idea is yours, could it be that in some strange way you might actually have fine-tuned it with some outside participation? Not talking input from guests, per se, but your fans who follow you online...
I have said for a few years now, the internet is the most important tool in my kitchen.
Whenever someone asks what the most important tools in my kitchen are, I usually say "internet, passport, calculator". Everything else follows.
Interesting. I haven't read much on the idea of choice in dining before. Ultimately, I think that the idea that you are crafting a standard experience by removing choice is flawed. A fixed experience treats everyone the same way, ignoring the fact that people have differing preferences and perceptions. Someone might detest the taste of a particular ingredient or have a strong negative reaction to a texture. These people won't have the same experience as others, but - if they had been given some choice - they might have been able to approximate it.
It would be interesting to coordinate this concept with a psychologist or sociologist. Tracking statistical data of choices made and, perhaps, seeing if the composition of the card (in terms of the adjectives included, the order in which they are included, etc.) changes the distribution of choices.
I'm a psychologist! In fact, an emotion researcher. And Grant, if Alinea is in the market for a psychologist I'll kiss academia goodbye in a heartbeat. Jim's right that the framing of the card will influence the choices made by the diners. There is a good deal of evidence across decision making research suggesting that the way options are presented will influence their appeal to consumers. For example, presenting the card as it is pictured (with all categories visible) will lead to different choices than if you, say, presented the first category of choices (flavors), and then revealed the next category (textures). This is a somewhat simple and not that interesting manipulation, but it demonstrates that choices will differ if comparisons can be made (e.g. salty and flaky vs. salty and chewy) relative to when they can't (salty THEN flaky or chewy). What's more interesting is that the card can be designed/framed to increase the predictability of the average diner's choice (playing with idea of the illusion of free will; diners can freely choose, but the choices are designed such that their led down a particular path determined by the kitchen) and to increase the pleasure of the diner's experience (there is already research being done in the psychology of wine showing framing effects on satisfaction, food would be a logical extension). So many cool experiments can be run...
You should pick up Cass Sunstein and Richard Thaler's (both fellow Chicagoans) book Nudge which would be very helpful if you are interested at all in guiding your diner's decisions about which options will go best together. Their philosophy is called "libertarian paternalism" and it involves using knowledge of what humans are like to guide them, rather than force them, into making specific choices.
I would really like to see this system in action the next time I come to Alinea. It seems like a brilliant idea.