http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/ Food en Copyright 2009 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:48:37 -0500 http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/ http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Forget horseradish. Harissa, a hot red sauce from North Africa, adds a kick to tomato-based drinks. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/how-to-spice-up-a-bloody-mary.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/how-to-spice-up-a-bloody-mary.php Behind the Counter Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:48:37 -0500 This Polish-born bread is round, yeasty, and ideal for breakfast--but it doesn't have a hole. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/bialy-bagels-lesser-known-cousin.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/bialy-bagels-lesser-known-cousin.php Behind the Counter Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:19:26 -0500 The spice main not play a central role in American cuisine, but these two versions are worth trying. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/paprika-spains-secret-ingredient.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/paprika-spains-secret-ingredient.php Behind the Counter Mon, 09 Nov 2009 08:14:20 -0500 Jungle Book.]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/an-american-fruit-youre-not-eating.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/an-american-fruit-youre-not-eating.php Behind the Counter Tue, 03 Nov 2009 08:13:11 -0500 Add lift to everything from fish to sandwiches with the pickled version of this popular citrus fruit. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/lemons-with-a-twist.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/lemons-with-a-twist.php Behind the Counter Wed, 28 Oct 2009 08:34:15 -0500 From curries to olive oil to biscuits, this list represents the range of culinary options the country has to offer. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/6-australian-foods-worth-trying-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/6-australian-foods-worth-trying-1.php Behind the Counter Wed, 21 Oct 2009 08:05:32 -0500 This silky, flavorful cut makes an ideal addition to pastas, sandwiches, bean dishes, and more. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/sick-of-bacon-try-smoked-pork-jowl.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/sick-of-bacon-try-smoked-pork-jowl.php Behind the Counter Tue, 20 Oct 2009 08:16:38 -0500 The slicing machines in most delicatessens may save time and effort, but they sacrifice taste. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/for-better-deli-meats-slice-by-hand.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/for-better-deli-meats-slice-by-hand.php Behind the Counter Thu, 15 Oct 2009 08:29:36 -0500 These bagel-shaped rings of dough can be found in bakeries across the country. The secret? Olive oil. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/taralli-italys-superior-snack.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/taralli-italys-superior-snack.php Behind the Counter Thu, 15 Oct 2009 08:25:47 -0500 Most loaves at Jewish delis are a disgrace. How the art of baking bread was lost--and where it lives on. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-search-for-real-rye-bread.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-search-for-real-rye-bread.php Behind the Counter Thu, 08 Oct 2009 08:34:04 -0500 A good loaf is hard to find. The author offers the generations- old secrets of making the Jewish staple. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/5-qualities-of-great-rye-bread.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/5-qualities-of-great-rye-bread.php Behind the Counter Thu, 08 Oct 2009 08:32:59 -0500 The author didn't care for the vegetable until he traveled to Tunisia. Three ways to prepare them. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/welcoming-turnip-season-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/welcoming-turnip-season-1.php Behind the Counter Tue, 06 Oct 2009 08:24:09 -0500 SLIDE SHOW  I]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/why-i-want-to-save-the-deli.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/why-i-want-to-save-the-deli.php Behind the Counter Thu, 01 Oct 2009 08:26:53 -0500 David Sax visits delis across the United States, as he explains why he wants to save the deli. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/why-i-want-to-save-the-deli-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/why-i-want-to-save-the-deli-1.php Behind the Counter Thu, 01 Oct 2009 06:45:01 -0500 Serbia may not be considered a culinary hot spot, but it produces outstanding preserves from wild fruits. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/wild-berry-jam-a-link-to-the-past.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/wild-berry-jam-a-link-to-the-past.php Behind the Counter Wed, 30 Sep 2009 08:28:49 -0500 No cooking, no kvetching about fatty pastrami--time for deli customers and owners to repent and reflect. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/yom-kippur-the-day-delis-stand-still.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/yom-kippur-the-day-delis-stand-still.php Behind the Counter Thu, 24 Sep 2009 08:32:34 -0500 Tinned tuna may lack prestige in the U.S., but in Spain, it's a delicacy. A survey of varieties worth trying. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/rethinking-canned-tuna.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/rethinking-canned-tuna.php Behind the Counter Thu, 24 Sep 2009 08:19:54 -0500 This North African-inspired dish uses two kinds of harissa to create a simple meal that's easy to make. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/spicy-tunisian-style-scallops.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/spicy-tunisian-style-scallops.php Behind the Counter Entrées Recipes Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:37:05 -0500 Revueltos aren't familiar to all Americans, but they should be-- they're easy and can be made several ways.]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/introducing-spanish-scrambled-eggs.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/introducing-spanish-scrambled-eggs.php Behind the Counter Thu, 17 Sep 2009 08:45:54 -0500 SLIDE SHOW  I]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/at-delis-the-rosh-hashanna-rush.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/at-delis-the-rosh-hashanna-rush.php Behind the Counter Tue, 15 Sep 2009 08:29:05 -0500 David Sax surveys Rosh Hashana dishes at delis across the United States, from Florida to San Francisco. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/rosh-hashanna-rush-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/rosh-hashanna-rush-1.php Behind the Counter Tue, 15 Sep 2009 06:45:01 -0500 Mad Men-worthy bottle.]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/spains-sexy-stylish-olive-oil.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/spains-sexy-stylish-olive-oil.php Behind the Counter Mon, 14 Sep 2009 08:27:37 -0500 Florida's rich history is reflected in gazpachi salad, a regional dish that combines tomatoes, cucumbers--and hard tack. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/gazpacho-from-soup-to-salad-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/gazpacho-from-soup-to-salad-1.php Behind the Counter Wed, 09 Sep 2009 08:36:43 -0500 Cubebs taste like a combination of pepper, allspice, and juniper berries and complement everything from gin to fruit. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/cubebs.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/cubebs.php Behind the Counter Wed, 02 Sep 2009 12:45:10 -0500 Irish cuisine has more going for it than just potatoes and Guinness. The island's other memorable foods. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/great-irish-cheese-tea-and-bacon.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/great-irish-cheese-tea-and-bacon.php Behind the Counter Mon, 31 Aug 2009 08:13:39 -0500 The secrets of a chocolatier who produces noteworthy chocolate while helping make the world a better place. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/chocolate-with-a-conscience.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/chocolate-with-a-conscience.php Behind the Counter Thu, 27 Aug 2009 08:39:07 -0500 sandwich tunisien tastes like summer but is an ideal addition to a fall football picnic. SLIDE SHOW  I]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-sandwich-for-all-seasons.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-sandwich-for-all-seasons.php Behind the Counter Tue, 25 Aug 2009 08:29:25 -0500 The formula for ideal fried eggs is simple: combine good olive oil, sea salt, black pepper, and fresh eggs. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/fried-eggs-spanish-style.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/fried-eggs-spanish-style.php Behind the Counter Tue, 18 Aug 2009 08:22:31 -0500 RECIPES  I]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/arkansas-smoky-peppery-bacon.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/arkansas-smoky-peppery-bacon.php Behind the Counter Tue, 11 Aug 2009 08:32:36 -0500 Not all feta is created equal. How to find and enjoy high-quality versions of Greece's signature cheese. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/feta-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/feta-1.php Behind the Counter Tue, 04 Aug 2009 08:18:48 -0500 After getting instructions to increase his chocolate consumption, the author tries five varieties. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/doctors-orders-eat-more-chocolate-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/doctors-orders-eat-more-chocolate-1.php Behind the Counter Wed, 29 Jul 2009 12:45:19 -0500 Made in the high plains of the American West, this honey is good enough to eat right out of the jar. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/clover-honey-from-the-high-plains-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/clover-honey-from-the-high-plains-1.php Behind the Counter Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:45:25 -0500 Tomato season isn't here yet, but you can have bruschetta anyway; this variation uses peas and mint. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-mid-summer-twist-on-bruschetta.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-mid-summer-twist-on-bruschetta.php Behind the Counter Tue, 21 Jul 2009 08:10:53 -0500 Most Americans prefer their fish mild, but the author makes the case for strong flavors--and offers a recipe. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-bold-flavor-of-bluefish.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-bold-flavor-of-bluefish.php Behind the Counter Entrées Recipes Thu, 16 Jul 2009 08:24:02 -0500 These buttery bacon cheese scones are a treat for almost any situation, from breakfast to just before bed. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/bacon-cheddar-scones.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/bacon-cheddar-scones.php Behind the Counter Fri, 10 Jul 2009 08:33:41 -0500 American food has come a long way since the 1950s. Mozzarella cheese is no exception. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-evolution-of-american-mozzarella-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-evolution-of-american-mozzarella-1.php Behind the Counter Wed, 08 Jul 2009 08:33:22 -0500 Pimento cheese mashed potatoes are easy to make and taste good--especially if you add bacon. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-cheesy-twist-on-mashed-potatoes.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-cheesy-twist-on-mashed-potatoes.php Behind the Counter Mon, 06 Jul 2009 08:25:26 -0500 Planning a Fourth of July cook-out? Try this combination of mozzarella, pancetta, and vegetables. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/simple-skewers-for-the-grill.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/simple-skewers-for-the-grill.php Behind the Counter Mon, 29 Jun 2009 08:27:04 -0500 A sliver of South Carolina ignores vinegar and tomato sauce in favor of one barbecue seasoning: mustard. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-secret-of-south-carolina-bbq.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-secret-of-south-carolina-bbq.php Behind the Counter Tue, 23 Jun 2009 12:45:17 -0500 Not all oatmeal is equal: Taste Macroom's, from a 200-year-old mill, and you won't want instant again. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/oatmeal.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/oatmeal.php Behind the Counter Fri, 19 Jun 2009 08:26:01 -0500 This recipe was developed by Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry, Co. Cork in Ireland for the Walton Mills oats from Macroom. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/recipe-macroom-oatmeal-biscuits.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/recipe-macroom-oatmeal-biscuits.php Appetizers Behind the Counter Recipes Fri, 19 Jun 2009 06:45:52 -0500 Combine cabbage, celery, and fennel with good olive oil and vinegar, and serve with a side of feta or goat cheese. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-salad-for-springtime.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-salad-for-springtime.php Behind the Counter Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:56:42 -0500 Pimientos de Cristal are rich, roasted, and very, very expensive. Though most people might not think they want to spend money on peppers, the author explains why they're worth a splurge--and why you should consider eating them right out of the jar.]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/from-spain-the-foie-gras-of-peppers.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/from-spain-the-foie-gras-of-peppers.php Behind the Counter Mon, 15 Jun 2009 08:14:26 -0500 The author gathers a group of friends to help assemble a special edition of his latest book: a guide to bacon. It's a joyous occasion, marked by a special visit from one of the people who inspired the author to write the book in the first place. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/guide-to-better-bacon-party.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/guide-to-better-bacon-party.php Behind the Counter Thu, 11 Jun 2009 08:09:07 -0500 Celebrate asparagus season by making the ultimate springtime sandwich, combine asparagus, bacon, and egg and put it all between two slices of your favorite kind of toast. Be sure to eat it quickly--this sandwich is best when it's fresh and hot. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/honest-abe-asparagus-bacon-egg.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/honest-abe-asparagus-bacon-egg.php Behind the Counter Tue, 09 Jun 2009 12:45:13 -0500 Stonington Seafood makes smoked salmon on a small scale while trying to help its coastal Maine community. And the company never loses sight of the most basic rule of smoked fish: it's always as good as the fresh fish from which it comes. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/big-flavor-from-a-small-place.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/big-flavor-from-a-small-place.php Behind the Counter Wed, 03 Jun 2009 08:18:06 -0500 Pimento cheese is a staple of Southern cuisine--but many people elsewhere haven't tasted its simple, spicy creaminess. Here, an ode to the pimento cheese sandwich and a tip for how to make this classic even better by adding one ingredient. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-souths-signature-sandwich.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-souths-signature-sandwich.php Behind the Counter Mon, 01 Jun 2009 12:45:00 -0500 It might look unusual, but prepared with toasty, smoky couscous, this Tunisian recipe will make you see octopus in a new way. One taste of this simple, flavorful dish, and you will be won over. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/octopus-and-cous-cous.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/octopus-and-cous-cous.php Behind the Counter Thu, 28 May 2009 12:45:54 -0500 A fascinating taste of Tunisian cooking that exemplifies the uniqueness and deliciousness of the country's traditional cuisine. Baby fava beans, chickpeas, and sliced up octopus are long cooked in a light tomato sauce, with the couscous cooked in at the end. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/recipe-octopus-and-couscous.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/recipe-octopus-and-couscous.php Behind the Counter Recipes Thu, 28 May 2009 12:45:27 -0500 A diner in Central Maine makes doughnuts in local, fresh flavors like peanut butter, raspberry preserves, applesauce, molasses, lemon, carrot, fresh blueberries, even squash. And the signature sweet potato doughnuts will make you forget Krispy Kreme forever. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/deep-in-maine-artisinal-doughnuts.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/deep-in-maine-artisinal-doughnuts.php Behind the Counter Thu, 28 May 2009 08:15:02 -0500 Merken, the native spice of Chile, goes with beef, fish, and, lamb but can also accompany everything from eggs to pasta to fruit. It's about as easy to use and versatile as you're going to get: You just sprinkle it on whatever you're eating. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-spice-rub-for-more-than-just-meat.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/a-spice-rub-for-more-than-just-meat.php Behind the Counter Mon, 25 May 2009 07:08:58 -0500 This corn-based dish goes with a wide range of sauces and toppings, from butter to tomato sauce to honey. Here, a three-part guide to buying, cooking, and enjoying polenta, along with the stories and history behind the food. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/polenta-the-complete-guide-1.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/polenta-the-complete-guide-1.php Behind the Counter Thu, 21 May 2009 12:45:01 -0500 So many people's first experience with these little fish was by being offered outstandingly bad versions of them that they form their entire opinion from that understandably negative impression. But fresh anchovies are worth another try. Follow the example of the Spanish. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/giving-anchovies-a-second-chance.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/giving-anchovies-a-second-chance.php Behind the Counter Tue, 19 May 2009 07:51:58 -0500 Honey goes with everything from cheese to tea, but it's best by the spoonful--especially this rare, exotic variety. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/honey-never-tasted-so-sweet.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/honey-never-tasted-so-sweet.php Behind the Counter Thu, 14 May 2009 12:46:05 -0500 This sandwich is all about flavors--free range turkey, rich Swiss cheese, slightly sweet bread, sauerkraut, spices, and more--in harmonious balance. A description of how it all comes together provides inspiration for making one at home. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-dexter-reuben-at-the-roadh.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-dexter-reuben-at-the-roadh.php Behind the Counter Mon, 11 May 2009 12:45:57 -0500 Pa amb Tomaquet. As soon as you learn how to make it, this tomato-soaked Spanish delicacy will challenge bruschetta for dominance at your dinner table.]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/spains-tomato-soaked-take-bruschetta.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/spains-tomato-soaked-take-bruschetta.php Behind the Counter Wed, 06 May 2009 08:42:29 -0500 Babka, a pastry sure to cheer anyone up even in these tough economic times, dates to ancient Ukraine--or is it Italy? But chocolate babka, the most appealing variation of all, could only be an American creation. A history across continents. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/babka-trans-atlantic.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/babka-trans-atlantic.php Behind the Counter Thu, 30 Apr 2009 12:45:00 -0500 After mock-ups, test batches, and the gathering of chocolate from Missouri to Mexico, this decadent chocolate bar is finally ready for prime time. The author has scoured continents for the right beans, the best vanilla, and that special something extra. He, and you, can taste the difference. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/searching-for-the-perfect-chocolate.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/searching-for-the-perfect-chocolate.php Behind the Counter Wed, 22 Apr 2009 08:15:00 -0500 Never had potlikker? This hearty green drink began with American slaves and became a Southern staple. Don't dismiss the collards as just some passing vegetable sidebar--there is a story behind that small mess of greens. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/potlikker-from-slave-plantations.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/potlikker-from-slave-plantations.php Behind the Counter Thu, 16 Apr 2009 08:14:26 -0500 germe di grano--pasta made with wheat that has its natural germ still intact.]]> http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-best-pasta-youve-never-had.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/the-best-pasta-youve-never-had.php Behind the Counter Fri, 03 Apr 2009 08:25:00 -0500 Want to make the perfect bagel? It's all about understanding the heritage and tradition. Follow their centuries-old story across immigrant trails, ethnic strife, labor activism, and underground political movements. From 15th-century Poland to 21st-century New York, bagels have been through it all. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/secret-history-bagels.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/secret-history-bagels.php Behind the Counter Thu, 26 Mar 2009 09:25:00 -0500 One of the best-kept (and tastiest) secrets of great American food is Nashville's "hot fried chicken." A fusion of Tennessee's two cooking styles -- Western, Memphis BBQ and Eastern, Nashville black pepper -- this is a spicy treat with dangerously addictive qualities. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/nashville-hot-fried-chicken-on.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/nashville-hot-fried-chicken-on.php Behind the Counter Tue, 17 Mar 2009 12:55:00 -0500 These bold, flavorful (and gluten-free) creations began on patrician Dutch plantations and became staples of Southern kitchens. Topped with maple syrup or the more traditional sorghum, it's no wonder these have endured for centuries. http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/grits-bits-waffle.php http://food.theatlantic.com/behind-the-counter/grits-bits-waffle.php Behind the Counter Fri, 13 Mar 2009 09:03:00 -0500