Food

Cooking From the South

Oct 16 2009, 8:28 am

5 Books Every Cook Should Have

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Photo by KHueg/Flickr CC


To try orange ginger roasted chicken from The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen, click here for the recipe.

When I have too much time on my hands, which is not very often, I go through little lists in my head of "If I had to choose five": my five favorite books of fiction, my five favorite pieces of art in my house, etc. Recently, I thought of my five favorite cookbooks. My lists seem to remain pretty much the same, but this one has just changed. Last week I received a copy of Rebecca Katz's new cookbook with Mat Edelson. Before I tell you the name of this book, I want to tell you how impressed I was with it.

I have been writing this article in my head for days and finally can put pen to paper. Last Friday was the final day of Fall Pilgrimage, and I was able to retire my heavy hoop skirt. When Saturday came I was able to wear something I am much more comfortable in: an apron. Having an audience of eight for a fall evening cooking class, I decided to discuss some of my thoughts with my guests as we made a savory Creole fish stew. After reading more of the book and talking titles with my guests, within two days I have gone from the idea of calling this article "cooking to cure," emphasizing breast cancer awareness month, now to "five books every kitchen should have."
Finding the best Junior League books would follow the same rule as ordering sweet tea: Never order one from a state that does not have an SEC team.
I am not abandoning the importance of this month being Breast Cancer Awareness Month. On the contrary, I am trying to reach more people. There is not one person reading this article who has not already been touched by cancer. If we don't have a family member, then it is a co-worker or a best friend, or a neighbor. This is why I have put this book on my list of books I will always have in my kitchen. Although this book is titled The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen: Nourishing, Big Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery, I am telling you, it is so much more. It is a culinary Rx reference and an encyclopedia of food to help with many ailments.

I think every mother can use this book just to nurture her family when they have common colds, flus, and routine ailments. Every friend can use it to prepare something for other friends when they are ailing. Most importantly, it has recipes that are truly appealing and make you hungry when you read them. The author refers to that as the "yum factor".

As I read this book I was wishing I had it before now. I have two sisters that have had breast cancer (both in remission, thankfully) and now my mother has another form of cancer. Trying to care for someone going through treatment to me is like walking in a minefield. As much as I love to cook and to nurture everyone I love, I am fearful of preparing something that might make them feel worse instead of better. This book frees me from that. Already I feel more knowledgeable and inspired.

Don't let the title limit you to thinking you only need this book if someone you love has cancer. Think of it as a good reference book for cooking to cure.

Every kitchen should have:

1) A good reference book. Always on the top corner by the wall on my armoire in the den is La Varenne Pratique, because when I need it, I need it. A book like this covers everything from how to carve a ham and how to fillet a fish to the proper way to scramble an egg and a few basics of pastry. It is 500 pages of answers to most culinary questions. I attended this school and this book is like a refresher course every time I pick it up.

2) A pastry book. Next to La Varenne Pratique is The American Baker by Jim Dodge. He has a way of taking the fear out of baking. I also like books you really learn from. In the beginning of this book, he covers the topics of seasonal ingredients, complementary tastes and textures, clarity of flavor, simplicity, and promises of pleasure. Any pastry chef who gets into these topics before recipes has my respect, and his recipes work.

3) A Junior League book. Mixed in with many of my favorite cookbooks are several editions of Come on In. My favorite is from the Jackson, Mississippi Junior League. Maybe this is where the southern belle in me comes out. I would think finding the best Junior League books would follow the same rule as ordering sweet tea: Never order one from a state that does not have an SEC team.These books typically have about 100 recipes for dips and party appetizers for the home cook, but like a sassy Betty Crocker, they cover everything with more flavor and spice. They are always tested, and as much as I tease my friend Doris Ann Benoist that she has never made an entrée in her life--she has entertained for years with just dips--I always enjoy her latest dip.

4) An Italian technique book. My pick is Giuliano Bugialli's Classic Techniques of Italian Cooking. This book is a culinary history book, and also includes techniques. I have always believed if you can master French cooking and Italian you have the basic knowledge to venture into all the other cuisines. Remember, I am trying to limit this list to five. (You can substitute your favorite book here.)

5) A book to nourish loved ones. The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen: Nourishing, Big Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery--This is a book I have added to my shelf and it will always be within reach. I think this book could be called many things--a mother's handbook to nourishing your loved ones or cooking to cure. I know my family and friends will benefit from my new favorite book the next time I need to cook something to make them feel better.

Which cooking books do you find indispensable? Tell us in the comments.

Recipe: Orange Ginger Roasted Chicken

Comments (13)

Five Cookbooks:

Joy of Cooking, 1975 edition Rombauer & Becker
The Complete Book of High Altitude Baking, 1961 Edition Nemiro & Hamilton
Sunlight Cafe, 2002 Mollie Katzen
The Herb & Spice Bible 2006 Ian Hemphill
The Greens, 1987 Deborah Madison

Of the above though, The Joy has saved me more times in more countrys than I can say. The 1975 far superior to subsequent editions.

Collecting cookbooks is one of my favorite activities. Thank you for this! I usually look to stephanieklein.com, who writes about cookbooks quite often, and dedicates a section of her site to her favorite ones.

Leith Techniques Bible,
Larousse Gastronomique,
Bittman's How to Cook Everything,
Nigella's How to Eat,
Harold McGee,
Elizabeth David, French Provincal and the Italian one,
Done.

1) How To Cook Everything ---- Mark Bittman
2) Mastering The Art of French Cooking -- Julia Child
3) American Cookery --- James Beard
4) Classic Techniques of Italian Cooking ---- Giuliano Bugialli
5) The Professional Pastry Chef -- Bo Friberg (very complete but somewhat dated)

Mark Bittman, How To Cook Everything
On Food And Cooking, Harold McGee
The Best Bread Ever, Charles Van Over
The New Moosewood Cookbook, Mollie Katzen
Mr. Boston's Official Bartender's Guide, Mr. Boston

With all due respect to the ill and to those who love and care for them, the notion that, given only five cookbooks to choose, you'd end up with one containing "cancer" in its title is bizarre and, truth be told, not particularly life-affirming. It's like the story (I don't recall its source) of the American woman who tries to order a Diet Coke in a restaurant in France: The waiter's response is, "Madame, this is a restaurant, not a clinic."

Food is good for you; without it, you die. Thus the kitchen is inherently life-affirming and life-enhancing, and we should work to maximize its welcoming, reassuring qualities, for the healthy and the sick alike. We run the risk of watering down those qualities by trying to turn it into some kind of nutritional research facility.

Body by Pilates (Replying to: Barry Foy)

This book is truly LIFE AFFIRMING! Nurturing, lovely and true. Maybe you should read it Barry...before you speak against it. Do you know how to effectively nourish someone who's been through chemo and can't hold anything down...this book tells you. Do know know how to put pure nourishment in to a body that has cancer cells? We're not talking blind, hamburger, comfort food here! Love...and educated recipes for our sick loved ones are what's needed.

1 - Joy of Cooking (1975 or earlier edition) - The title says it all - cooking should be a "joy", not a job or a chore. Plus it contains lots of useful info, like how to set a table, how to store various foods, what you can substitute, etc., that many cookbooks don't bother with.

2 - Larousse Gastronomique - Another reference, it can be difficult to use if you don't have basic cooking chops, but if you ever wanted to know how to make a "sauce Robert", this is the book.

3 - Mastering the Art of French Cooking - Julia's masterpiece. Enough said

4 - A good Asian cookbook. Most of my wife's have Chinese titles, although the recipes are in both English and Chinese. Everyone should know how to make red cooked pork and hot and sour soup.

5 - How to Cook A Wolf by M.F.K. Fisher - OK, not a cookbook per se, but still, if you love to cook, this book will touch your soul.

1: Women's Day Encyclodpedia of Cooking"
My mother in law who was a wonderful cook gave me this 12 volume set. It was a great gift to a new bride (43 years ago). It had references and definitions and explanations. It got me interested in cooking.
2: Mastering the Art of French Cooking
#: Jewish Cooking in America
Valuable for the recipes and the stories....
Depending on the moment one of the thousand other cookbooks I have or have had.
Now when I want a recipe I don't even look at those cookbooks, I search online............

"Never order sweet tea in a state without an SEC team" appears to be a witticism from the late Lewis Grizzard. If anyone has the exact quote, please contact me.

parenthetical

My five:

How to Cook Everything - Mark Bittman
Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan
Mastering the Art of French Cooking - Julia Child et.al.
Authentic Mexican - Rick Bayless
The New Book of Middle Eastern Food - Claudia Roden

Thank god I can actually have more than five...

This is a British perspective but has some American on it:

Mastering the Art of French Cooking
Elizabeth David - French Provincial Cooking
Anne Willan - Fifty Years of Good Eating
Simon Hopkinson - Roast Chicken and Other Stories
Anna del Conte - Entertaining al Italiana

After forty years of being a keen cook I own 300+ books and struggled to narrow it down but these are the ones I always return to.

1. The Flavor Bible, Page and Dornenburg (teaching me all the time, so much fun to read)
2. Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, Deborah Madison (my all-time favorite)
3. The Tassajara Bread Book, Edward Espe Brown (another book that warms your heart)
4. How to Cook Everything, Bittman
5. Eat Me, Kenny Shopsin (the most hilarious cookbook I've ever read, plus crazy recipes including killer mac and cheese pancakes)

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