Photo by cogdogblog/Flickr CC
We've been lucky here in the nation's capital. Summer has been mild so far, but the infernal mugginess that leads many to postulate that D.C. was once a swamp soon awaits us. Lugging my laptop to the local coffee shop will become an enormous chore more fitting an athlete. Come to think of it, coffee seems like it may be ill advised. Perhaps, it's time to start drinking actual water and divert my primary water intake from java, Diet Coke and beer?
Under these conditions, my mind turns to one thing, and one thing alone: the only beverage capable of relieving the unbearable heat, the Rickey. In my mind, the Rickey is to summer what Superglue is to adhesives, or Kleenex is to tissues. They're synonymous. To go a summer without the Rickey would be to pop all of the inflatable swimming pools of my youth--I need it to mark the occasion of summer.
I hereby declare July Rickey Month and the Rickey the official-unofficial cocktail of Washington, D.C.The Rickey is a category of mixed drinks made from a base spirit, half of a lime squeezed and dropped in the glass, and topped with carbonated water. Little or no sugar is added to the Rickey. Originally made with Bourbon whiskey, the Rickey was invented in Washington, D.C. around 1883 at Shoomaker's bar by bartender George A. Williamson, purportedly in collaboration with Democratic lobbyist Colonel Joe Rickey. It became a worldwide sensation when mixed with gin.
Oh, how far this summertime sipper has come! It was once so popular that in a 1907 Los Angeles Herald article titled, "Limes Are On Time," the writer calls two million limes the raw materials for Gin Rickeys. Yet Prohibition and fashion conspired against the District's signature cocktail. Thankfully it's making a resurgence, and none to soon. I could use a drink.
Along with the D.C. Craft Bartenders Guild, of which I am a member, I hereby declare July Rickey Month and the Rickey the official-unofficial cocktail of Washington, D.C. If you live in the D.C.-metropolitan area and are over 21 years of age you must have one before the month is over. (I will come to your door and ask you personally when and where you had it.)
To make it easier on you, and save me from wagging a bar spoon in your face, the D.C. Craft Bartenders Guild has started an annual contest every July in homage to the Rickey, whereby city bartenders re-imagine the classic cooler. So you can find Rickeys all throughout the city of Washington, D.C. Competing bartenders use everything from corn water to tamarind soda in an attempt to keep the original intent while adding their own creative touch. See here for more information.
I'm going to stick to my recipe for now, but if it gets any hotter I'll look forward to tasting the winning results.
The Rickey
• 2 oz. Old Tom Gin
• Half of a lime
• Apollinaris Water
Squeeze lime and drop in glass. Add ice to goblet or tall glass. Use spoon in glass. Pour gin over ice and top with soda. Stir and serve.
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Apollinaris? GAG!!! You've got to be kidding. Way to ruin a great drink.
My recommendation would be Sole sparkling water. Clean and refreshing without the noxious taste and aroma of Apollinaris.
Seriously, if you don't have an opinion why post? Joking, Apollinaris has minerals. That's what makes it so appealing to the drink for me--the saline, minerally taste it adds. Sole is a touch sweet and very clean. They both make good Rickeys but Apollinaris makes the better of the two in my opinion.
Old Tom gin? Sparkling mineral water? Where exactly should I put the gold leaf and ivory swizzle stick? Perhaps it gives the author an elitist kick to call for such ingredients, after all Old Tom gin is rarer than an ivory swizzle stick and imported mineral water is as silly an extravagance as gold leaf. For most, though, a nice London dry gin and seltzer water will do just as well. I contend that a drier gin style is better suited to this cocktail, which gets so much summertime appeal from the fact that is a bone dry tipple with bubbles. To use the sweeter Old Tom style gin would detract from this. As for the mineral water, I say humbug. Viva la seltzer bottle.
I think the greater point is the Rickey's versatility. It utilizes approximate ratios and types of ingredients (i.e. gin, sparkling water), rather than precise measurements or specifically named ingredients. Like less gin? Fine, add more sparkle. Want to swing more demotic in your tastes? Fine, use Hendricks and club soda. More lime? Less lime? It's adaptable. The purpose is refreshment, like citrus-y ice water but much more fun.
Mr. Brown, I've been following your entries on the Atlantic food channel since making its recent, happy discovery. I look forward to sidling up to the Gibson once I return to DC for the fall semester of grad school. Hope to make your acquaintance. Cheers!
I fear you sound like a bartender unwilling to stir a Martini because it takes too long, even with an ivory swizzle stick. Great cocktails sometimes require additional effort--in this case via research--and, sometimes, additional cost.
The Gin Rickey was likely created with either Old Tom Gin or Plymouth, neither of which are London Dry Gins. Although you may prefer it, I finally realized the potential of this drink with a fuller, ever-so-slightly sweet gin. While dry gins are good too, a slight sweetness rounds the bite off on the finish while remaining tart and more or less dry. Why not give it a try?
Hayman's Old Tom Gin is distributed in most of the U.S., if at least by half, and by mail order where permissible at www.hausalpenz.com.
Apollinaris water is not as cheap as tap water but quality ingredients tend to have a requisite hike in price. We're still talking about an ingredient that is under $2. The flavor is very different and it was also likely used in the Gin Rickey's creation.
Sadly the internet brings out the best in some people.... Anyway it sounds like a very nice drink, I'll have to try it.