Photo by Carol Ann Sayle
The impetus for our celebration of author/farmer Novella Carpenter was former First Lady Laura Bush's annual Texas Book Festival, held on the grounds of the State Capitol.
The two-day festival features authors reading from their new works, panel discussions on various topics covered in non-fiction books, book sales, music, and children's activities. The weather was perfect, a variation of a fall day in New England, but in Austin, the tree leaves were still green. Bright sunshine brought out educated folks--dressed in shorts and shirt sleeves--who love books.
Novella wrote a very popular book, Farm City, about her experiences in an inner-city Oakland, California neighborhood--notably a bit edgier than the one in which our own farm is located. Novella spied a vacant lot next to her apartment building and "squatted" on it in order to grow vegetables. Soon, the vegetables were accompanied by chickens, ducks, geese, goats, rabbits, and pigs. An admirable example of diversity, for sure. The book details the keeping of these animals, interactions with neighborhood characters (including a man who sleeps in an abandoned car), and the eventual harvesting of her animals for food.
I couldn't resist adding a true Texas appetizer: little bison meatballs with a secret fire inside--tiny chili pequins from our wild bushes.Whoa! This is living off the land in extreme. But a very honest living. The animals are well-cared for in a clean environment, the pigs fed gourmet leftovers from Oakland's finest restaurants' dumpsters, and ultimately dispatched with compassion and gratitude.
So at the book festival, Food Channel curator Corby Kummer moderated a panel consisting of Novella and two vegetarian authors who see meat consumption as hastening the end of the world. I'm simplifying here, of course. I, too, was a vegetarian (as was Novella)--in my case, for 18 years. Why? Because factory meat is not healthy for people, torture for the animals, and detrimental to our environment. I ultimately changed my at-home menu for two reasons.
First, at our farm stand, we began carrying grass-fed meat, humanely-raised and harvested by three very ethical Texas ranchers. The omega fatty acids are properly balanced and the animals are not sickened from eating the wrong foods and standing in their own excrement. Their poop actually fertilizes the mixed-forage fields on which they live bucolic lives until the last minute. (I still do not eat meat at restaurants, unless they carry the same meat that we do.)
The second reason was that a few years ago, I began having problems picking up a 50-pound bag of chicken feed. I was losing muscle, apparently because I'm over 60 years old. I read that older folks have more difficulty in building muscles than do youngsters.
Not that we eat great slabs of meat, just some, and it has made a difference in my "musculature."
The panel discussion took place in the Texas House of Representatives, a mere 2 1/2 miles from our farm in East Austin. The audience, including my farmer friends and I, sat in the cushy chairs behind the locked desks of our elected rulers. Unfortunately all we could see of the panelists and Corby were their literary heads. I guess that's the reason representatives sometimes doze off during the legislative sessions, but we did not doze, as the topic was so interesting. We even wanted to cast a vote at the end!
Afterwards, we carted Novella off for a tour of the urban farms in East Austin (there are now four!), and then back to our farm for a dinner. One of the hostesses made a succulent Gulf Coast fresh fish/shrimp stew; another farmer brought a sampling of her veggies for an appetizer. I made a salad using our baby arugula (which Corby professes to love), and I couldn't resist adding a true Texas appetizer: little bison meatballs with a secret fire inside--tiny chili pequins from our wild bushes.
We crowded into our farmhouse, ate off plates on our laps, drank some wine, and talked into the night about farming in cities (but not too far into the night as we are, ahem, farmers). Corby would have enjoyed it immensely, but alas, he was on an airplane bound for home. Next year, perhaps I'll make an arugula salad for him!



Thank you for this thoughtful post and to the Atlantic for this interesting series! I used to think I was being silly about not feeling great when I don't have a little meat in my diet, especially when talking to my vegetarian friends who swear they feel better without it. I suppose we're all made a little differently. Just posted one on this dilemma as well: http://tinyurl.com/yzvx7k7 if you're interested!
Hi Belinda/Zomppa,
Thanks for your comment. Your blog was equally thoughtful. I agree with Mr. Pollan, that we (Americans especially) should eat more vegetables and LESS meat. Many folks eat it three times a day, and to afford that, you can guess that it is the cheapest meat available.
If grassfed/humanely-raised/compassionately "harvested" meat is expensive, there is likely a reason for the price. No concerned rancher I know of is making a "killing" raising meat. If meat was reserved for "special occasions" because of its quality and therefore its expense, then we would likely solve some of our environmental/land-use/health problems.
We are biased towards vegetables anyway, since they are what we grow. But people will choose what makes them feel healthier, gives them more energy (and muscles). That choice should be theirs. I just wish a magic wand could (1) cause meat animals to be produced with concern for their health and quality of life and that (2) folks would eat less of it. CA
Bernd Heindrick, professor, ultra marathon runner and naturalist, wrote in Why We Run that he found that he needed to eat meat to keep his muscle strength up when training for races. Depending on what you are asking from your body, there is evidence that meat can be benficial.
http://www.weplay.com/sports-parents/nutrition/2-The-Meat-and-Potatoes-of-Sports-Nutrition
Good reasoning Savory Baker. And I do ask a lot of my body. I'm 65 years old and I work as physically hard on the farm as our younger employees. I have lots of energy and am rarely "sick." My diet consists mainly of vegetables and greens, but I do enjoy small amounts of meat and dairy. CA
My grandparents both turned vegetarian because they were getting older. As metabolism slows down - they didn't want to add to the problem of less energy. Digesting meat and dairy usually takes more energy then say digesting fruits and vegetables?
For every vegetarian who now adds meat to their diet there is a vegetarian who goes vegan as well. Both might have pros and cons but one thing is certain... we are apes. Our digestive system is one of apes. It looks very different than the anatomy of wolves, dogs, bears or cats. You can use a Ferrari for moving furniture and you can use a truck for racing - but we should at least in theory accept what we've initially been build for? Needless to say that if you moved to Antarctica and wanted to survive you will need to fish etc but that is not the point.
The keyword here was muscle? Last time I checked one needs protein for it. If one is unable to absorb it from beans and vegetables as efficiently as in the past one could eat more of it? After all Carl Lewis - our most successful track athlete to date was vegan. But nothing can stop aging - not even adding saturated fats and cholesterol to your diet.
One thing about meat is that it has no fiber whatsoever (plants do), has saturated fats and cholesterol (plants do not). To make matters worse - meat is no guarantee for your B12 intake as is commonly assumed.
What I do believe might be beneficial to us humans is if we adopted a diet of termites as all other apes do. There you have protein and B12 without saturated fats.
But excuse me for laughing at the title of this article. We live in the year 2009 where most people consume meat and dairy three times a day and it is killing the planet. "Why I eat meat".... Wow. We need more stories that can convert vegetarians into meat eaters, right? Finally something important and responsible to say, right? This is not the first time that The Atlantic does that. Just look at the number and type of articles... let me guess - most at The Atlantic and the western world at large eat meat. Yes, why?
At the very least I suppose that a real climate change scientists and a vegetarian like Mr Foer can write something - anything? Or is it only up to the commenters to present the other side? I know that might makes right and the majority is might in this case.
Carol Ann,
I'd like to apologize for my somewhat sarcastic remarks at the end regarding the title of your article. At best - they don't do my message any good and at worst they are insulting to you. It's no excuse but I have a day job and tend to write too quickly on the side when it comes to such sensitive subjects.
I'd like to add that if everyone on the planet would consume your diet - we would have far less problems on this planet. As often - I just fear that the average American, who is overweight or obese and destroying the planet with meat, will not get the message here of eating mainly greens as you do. I rather fear that he will interpret that it is ok to eat meat no matter what. That would be a shame.
My apologies again for my initial tone.
Hugo,
Your apology is cheerfully accepted! My title for the piece was "Novella Day" but in the aftermath of the panel discussion, I guess the title was changed to tie in to the "uproar" over what people should eat.
In my opinion, many people eat too much meat, and, almost universally, badly produced meat. A tragic disrespect(torture) of animals, our waterways, our land and our air seems necessary to satiate the enormous (3 times a day) demand for flesh at the cheapest price possible. I totally agree with you that this over-production and over-consumption is injurious to health of people and the planet.
I prefer, however, not to tell other people how they should live their life or what they should eat, as I obviously have changed courses in my own life. Perhaps "moderation" is the answer in most cases. Most likely in any case, people are going to eat whatever they want (as long as they can afford it) regardless what anyone says....
My diet, which is 80% vegetable/greens and 20% meat/dairy is good for me at this time. Beans don't agree with me, but I am not "against" them, as they are a very dense, inexpensive protein source. I eat bread/pasta rarely, typically as a guest at someone's home, as I find it turns to sugar in my body. I attempt to avoid sugar.
Good health to you and yours Hugo!
CA
Here is a good video on the subject: http://meat.org