Food

Jul 13 2009, 6:45 am

When a Chef Gets Famous

Meanwhile, the celebrity chef fulfills his obligation to the business and public by interacting with people on a more social level. This can range from frequent trips to the dining room to chat with tables--shaking hands and kissing babies, as I jokingly call it--to bigger-picture, brand-building stuff like writing books, filming TV shows and commercials, participating on the lecture/demo circuit, and developing mass-market products like kitchen tools and canned soups, sauces, and spice mixes.

All these activities pull the chef away from the kitchen and therefore the food, but ideally make the restaurant, the brand, and hopefully the overall guest experience better. The diners gain access, the business is financially rewarded, and the employees benefit from freedom and resources not typical in an average restaurant.

The fact is, the very thing that positions chefs in the class of fame--the grinding out of the daily work in the kitchen while striving for perfection, the monotonous and sometimes menial tasks, and the relentless dedication to the expression of creativity and originality in food--ultimately lands them on magazine covers, in newspaper features, and on TV. Which in turn can catapult the chef into a life far different from the typical hundred hours a week in a hot kitchen.
Cooking at a high level is a young man's game: the time commitment, as well as the mental and physical sacrifices, make working at that extreme unsustainable.
This creates a direct conflict. Does the success of the chef and restaurant lead to the demise in the quality of the product? Is it a double-edged sword? Most people think that for a great chef--the "passionate visionary artist" the media proclaims--to compete at the highest level, the work has to come directly from the chef's hands, or at least close to them. When people pay to eat the food equivalent of Nude Woman with a Necklace, they want the real deal. A Picasso is a Picasso because he painted it. But cooking is not like music, television, or painting, where art can be immortalized: you cook the masterpiece, it's consumed, and the next day you do it all over again.

Does it have to come from the hands of the master? Or is coming from the mind of the master through the hands of his disciples enough?

What most people don't realize is that this conflict handcuffs the chef. Not having the freedom to venture away from the stove and pursue other interests, personal or professional, is a creative ceiling: the obligation of the kitchen is always present. Naturally, as you grow as a chef and ideally gain more popularity, different opportunities are presented to you.

Cooking at a high level is a young man's game: the time commitment, as well as the mental and physical sacrifices, make working at that extreme unsustainable. But more importantly to the chef as a person is personal growth. Naturally curious and creative, we are always looking for different ways to apply ourselves in other creative media.

I have been fortunate to fulfill a few outside interests recently like writing--this blog, cookbooks, a memoir, traveling, and even collaborating on various TV and film-related projects. These avenues of creativity not only make my life richer and more rewarding personally but also inform and inspire my cooking.

So in the end does it matter if the chef is not in the house? Purely from the standpoint of food execution...likely not. Assuming, that is, that he or she has a well-trained and passionate staff being led by a tight chef de cuisine, the occasional absence is not detrimental to the experience.

But are we even talking about the food? Isn't this about the impact of presence? What if I sat in my office all night long, every meal cooked for every diner without my touching one component of one dish, and then walked through the rooms and chatted with guests at the end of their meal? Would they leave the restaurant having had a better experience than if I'd been too busy cooking to make a single appearance?

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Comments (8)

I do believe that the involvement of the chef in the restaurant and the kitchen is extremely important. A top-end restaurant is a team effort. If the chef has done his job well and assembled a top-notch, well-oiled and disciplined team, it is not so important that the chef physically prepares the food. However, the presence of a chef within the restaurant, taking a personal interest in the restaurant's operations whether by directly preparing the food, expediting or even working the room, makes a difference in the perception and experience of the diner. It speaks of a more personal connection for the diner and an enhanced experience. That is not to say that a diner can not have a wonderful meal in the absence of the chef or that the presence of the chef can elevate a poorly prepared meal. All else being equal, I think diners tend to feel that they are getting a better value if the chef is involved that night, even if it is only indirectly.

jhenrysmith.wordpress.com

i agree with docsconz. great post btw. i'm sure it's a much different scenario when the chef has like 4 or 5 restaurants, a cooking show etc. what a catch 22 with your mat idea. i must admit, as a diner, i might feel a bit disappointed if i didn't get 'the chef' presenting when the table next to me did...but i'd get over it. would probably be more at ease with your chef d cuisine as well, who knows, your an intense chef! can't wait to read your memoir...

Gordon Ramsay should be a warning for all the celebrity chefs who think they can build restaurant empires based solely on their celebrity without the in-house work it takes to create the team and make sure they are based in your philosophy : Bankruptcy is still bankruptcy and he is lucky he had his television entity to bail him out. But will he still maintain his celebrity as a chef if he no longer has restaurants?

cookiejesus.wordpress.com

On a restaurant like Alinea, I understand that your presence is key, at least for the creative process. Which is the "Picasso" people are paying to get. Patrons must realize that it's impossible for Grant Achatz to be necessarily involved with each and every dish that leaves the restaurant. That's why you have a passionate, trained, responsible team behind you. In places where the creative ceiling is set by the restaurant concept itself, what need is there for the chef once the team has grasp of it's job?

James Lyden

I wouldn't expect the creative process to suffer without the chef's presence any more than I would expect Steve Jobs to personally handle my IPod. When I visited Alinea last summer and was offered the chance to tour the kitchen following the meal, I'm sure that I probably saw the chef, but I was so floored by the hive of activity and overcome by my paranoia of getting in anyone's way that his presence or lack thereof didn't diminish the superlatives of the experience. I would consider it unfair to claim that the meal is lessened if the chef does not personally handle all 27 courses for dozens of diners. The standards he has established and the quality of his staff should set up service along the lines of a set of top quality lithographs rather than one meticulously done Picasso.

I think most serious foodies know that chefs aren't spending a whole lot of time on the line, but they want to know the place isn't running on autopilot either. Having the chefs make the rounds in the dining room is proof that they're there in the building, working on the menu, negotiating with the vendors, doing quality control and like. It's a touch I appreciate myself.

I've been thinking about the problem posed in Chef Achatz's last post on how to make sure nobody's meal is overshadowed by what's going on at the next table over. Would it be possible to come up with a half dozen variations on the Tour menu each with a unique special aspect. One has a particularly impressive mat plating presented by the the chef de cuisine, another has a simpler plating by Achatz, a third has an unusual composed dish that doesn't work on the mat, etc. Make everyone special by depriving everyone else in the room of something they're getting. You might still envy what the next table is getting, but they're going to be envious of you too. Regulars would still want to be treated a bit better so let them choose their variation while everyone else gets potluck. What do you think; would it work?

I will really support Billj idea on making everyone feel special Grant if you cant physically be there your self for every single guest in Alinea. creating some sort of unique dishes/elements in the tour menu or in the guest overall dining experience, might actually make them feel really special... as none of their fellow dinners around them would have something similar to what they had....

The dilemma/challenge will come when you will plane to open another Alinea somewhere else!!! Which I actually wish you to do with all my heart so We,... outside US can come and try you out....
What will then happen? no matter how many different / unique dishes you will offer to your guests... They will always feel that they dont get The Maximum of Achatz's Culinary experience...
Opening an Alinea in Dubai where I leave and work my self as a Chef, will give us the opportunity to taste what we have been reading in yur books for so long... And will for sure give you a lot of Media coverage and revenue as well.... But the question is.. Will it give to us.. Your guests/fans, the same experience that your guests have in US? Honestly, I believe that your self you will never be satisfied not been here... In your kitchen... I believe your stress level will be much higher for your restaurant outside NY for the simple reason that you will not be able to be there all the time... So.... When a Chef Gets Famous...! There is no a standard procedure to follow.... to be safe and do the right thing for you and your guests... Its all about who you are a a person how much you love what you do... For me whatever you do, if it comes thru you.. Its right... Because at least I see the real personality of the Chef..
Thank you for giving us all this Food for Thought for so long now...
Regards from Dubai
Doxis

This post remind me of one of the first back of the house restaurant reality show, The Restaurant, with Roco. The guy spent way too much time traveling, attending events, doing TV interviews, and hanging in front of the house. The result was that the food suffer, his eager kitchen staff of talented young chefs who wanted to learn from the guy left and he lost his restaurant.

Would this have happened if he was not on a TV show, and hung out in the kitchen and cooked? I do not think so. The guy was a rising star in the NYC restaurant world for his cooking, and he still could be today, but his fame ruined it.

Or did it? The guy does not have a restaurant anymore and lives off his cookbooks, TV and radio gigs. Maybe all he wanted was food fame and not to be a cook in the kitchen.

Speaking as a foodie patron, do I need to have the famous chef make my meal personally, and do I have to meet him/her and get a picture with them to post on my facebook page from my trip to Chicago to have a complete dinning experience? Not really. I would much rather the chef was a little less famous, so he is there more, and I could get into the restaurant.

I recall an almost 2 hour wait in the cold for a hotdog at Hot Dougs in chicago in part because the place was on Anthony Bourdain. Doug, the guy from "TV" was behind the counter taking orders. How were the hotdogs...pretty good, but the fame hassle was not worth it, at least for me, not that time at least.


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