Photo by amandabhslater/Flickr CC
Australia today is a pretty happening place, but that's really a pretty recent phenomenon; in the 1950s the now massively hip-hopping city of Sydney had only 800 total hotel rooms (by comparison, Ann Arbor--hardly a world capital--has 4,000!). Culturally, Australia's got this really weird mix of totally middle class solidity with kind of wild, whacked-out, slightly California-esque aggressiveness. Australians certainly do their fair share of partying; and yet people are so modest that not all that many years ago someone climbed up to paint a bathing suit onto the partially-exposed rear end of the little girl on the Coppertone billboard. And, to this day, no one seems to find it odd that cocktail sausages are sold in nearly every shop under the name "little boys."
Australian food is really up and coming in the last few years, and it's just going to get better. So much of it is tied up in the peculiar cultural conditions of the island (which, really, is the case with any region's food ways). Right now, what's really exciting is the variety of foods in Australia. It reflects the diversity of its land and the country's innovative chefs that have cultivated fresh and flavorful regional cuisines. Of course, the story of Australian food would not be complete without mention of the tremendous contribution made by other cultures such as the German, Italian, Greek, Asian, and South African immigrant communities, bringing both recipes and plant stock to their new home.
With the staff at the Deli showing such a passion for these foods, here's what they have to say about their favorite foods from Down Under.To my take, Australian food is very much where California food was 20 years ago. We've been getting more and more interesting and really flavorful Australian food into the Deli over the last couple of years, and last year the Bakehouse started making really delicious versions of the traditional Anzac biscuits. So, with the staff at the Deli showing such a passion for these foods, here's what they have to say about their favorite foods from Down Under:
1.) Charmaine Solomon's Curries
Somewhere within me, not very far below the surface from the intellectual realization that many cultures and nations have incredibly excellent preserved foods, lies an instinctive distrust for foods that come in jars and cans. It was created and nurtured in me as a child of the tropics (I grew up in India) whose mother cooked dinner from scratch every night. When it comes to foods that one can actually make from scratch, the distrust veers dangerously close to disdain.
As a food professional, I try to overcome this prejudice by studying the cultures and traditions of preservation. And tasting. Piquillo peppers. Sour cherries in syrup. Tomatoes. Sun-dried tomato paste. Preserved beets. Green Beans. Pickles. And slowly but surely, it has started to make sense and I have developed an appreciation for these foods.
But the prejudices all came roaring back when Ari brought jars of curry pastes on his return from a trip to Australia. He asked me whether I would taste them as the resident "curry" expert. Hah, I thought. Never. Piquillo peppers, I understand. Pasta sauces. Tomatoes. Yes. Curries. Never.
And yet, I did. Out of respect for Charmaine and Rueben Solomon, who make the curry pastes in question. The stories Ari told of them from his visit to Australia were intriguing and charming and so I agreed to take the curreis home and cook with them. (For more on Charmaine and Rueben's story, click here.)
Boy, did I have a prejudice turned on its head. They were fantastic. My entire kitchen was infused with smells from my home in India, my mind teeming with nostalgia. This was the real thing. And it came out of a jar. I almost did not want to believe it. I was so reluctant to let go of this prejudice, that I actually wrote to Charmaine with my skepticism. Here is her response:
Dear Gauri, I am delighted to have your comments on our curry pastes and marinades. Thank you so much for your enthusiastic approval. I, too, used to think that no good thing could come out of a jar, and to me it was so easy to make a delicious curry from scratch that I could not imagine why anyone would want to use a bottled curry paste.
One day, about 12 years ago, when I was teaching a class of about 60 people, they were raving about the flavors and asked why their curries did not taste like that. At that time we were not producing the spice blends. I did try my best to enthuse people to cook with natural ingredients and achieve beautiful flavors. It turned out that in spite of my having written so many books, people were not using the whole recipes. They would skip the first, all important part of making their own spice blends because they felt it was too much like hard work, and instead go and buy a bottled paste. When I asked which brand they used, they couldn't even tell me. So I decided to try various leading brands, and when I found which ones were good, I would recommend them. To my surprise I could not find a single one which tasted like it should.
There was nothing for me to do but to make my own range. I worked with a food scientist to find out how to give my products a shelf life. I told them I didn't want to add preservatives, MSG and other questionable ingredients. I especially didn't like the taste of acetic acid, which is what most commercial curry pastes use. We use citric acid, which is a much more natural flavor. I think that covers the answer to your question about why my pastes are so much better than other brands.
We carry several different flavors of Charmaine's sauces at the Deli, in an effort to thoughtfully represent Charmaine's range and her skillful representation of the foods of the Indian subcontinent and the Far East. They're all distinct in their spicing and they all have different levels of heat.
If you'd like to find the traditional recipes for all of these, check out Charmaine's website. There are also recipe suggestions on the jars and they work really well. But most importantly, just pick one you like. We'd be happy to give you a taste. And then use it as you like. Cook it with some boiled potatoes. Or use it as a marinade. Or put a tablespoon in a soup or stew to add a nice level of complexity and heat. They're really good. And that's what counts.
-Gauri Thergaonkar, Retail Manager
NEXT: Five other foods, including honey, vinegar, and biscuits
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Financial issues prevent us from traveling much anymore but I found this article about Australia positively enchanting. Almost as good as being there (and without the 14 hour plane flight!)
I can almost smell the curry and the biscuits!
Dear Ari Weinzweig
Moutere Grove is in New Zealand, not Australia, 20 seconds of looking at their website would tell you this. (including the .co.nz part of the url)
To include New Zealand foods in a list of Australian ones is not only offensive to both countries, but ignorant of the countries' differences.
And no matter where you are, you may NOT call ANZAC biscuits "cookies," especially if you are referring to them as Australian. "ANZAC" is a legally protected term, with a special dispensation relating to its use when applied to the biscuits. If you call them ANZAC cookies, you're breaking Australian law.
To most people in AMerica, Australia and New Zealand are the same or at least interchangeable. Like New Hampshire and Vermont.
I think you are wrong to criticize Mr. Weinzweig so caustically.
I agree with you comment that the criticism of Mr Weinzweig should not be so caustic.
However, as an Australian I must suggest a correction to your description of Australia and New Zealand as being "interchangeable... Like New Hampshire and Vermont".
If you wish to highlight the significance of the difference between the two nations, a better comparison would be to say that Australia and New Zealand are the same or at least interchangeable, like the USA and Canada.
I hope that sets a better perspective.
No doubt I have offended many Canadians by making such a suggestion ;)
By the way: ANZAC bikkies rock!
LEt's ignore the inaccuracies for a moment and pause to consider the incredibly patronizing tone of this article. As a proud "Australian American" I feel I have an even balance of passion for both nations - I hate it when Australian's criticize Americans with little personal experience and I hate it when Americans do the same to Australians. YEs Australia was a quiet little backwater in the 1950s but the food there (both produce and cooked foods) is regarded by most knowledgable food experts and numerous renowned chefs as some of the very best in the world. To compare it to California cuisine which drowns the natural flavors of produce in sauces is blinkered and ignorant. Here ends the rant!
Wow. Come all the way to Australia and totally miss the authentic flavors of this country. Missed Wattleseed, Lemon myrtle sprinkle, Alpine pepper, Riberries, Kakadu plums and on and on. There are over 2 dozen wild foods now either wild harvested or grown as organic foods. They are served in countless restaurants around the country either as Australian fare or simply as part of everyday menus. Wattleseed risotto can show up in an Italian eatery as easily as as a superb, Wattleseed ice cream dessert in a restaurant focused on Australian cuisine.
We even have Aboriginal run restaurants with indigenous chefs presenting their versions of authentic Australian food.
To review our food culture and only refer to Charmaine Solomon's curries and some ethnic cuisines is like visiting the States and saying everyone eats Cajun.
Have a look at sites like www.dining-downunder.com and you'll begin to understand what real Australian food is all about.
I love Ari and I visit Zingerman's whenever possible (it's only one state away), but I'd love to have seen this article actually say a bit more about Australian cuisine. Inaccuracies aside, this barely touches the surface of Australia's culinary offerings -- both those available in the US and those best sampled on location.
If anyone wants to learn a bit more about Australian delicacies, this Public Radio podcast of a program given by Aussie pastry chef Naomi Levine and me (author of Waltzing Australia) delves more into why the continent is truly a great dining destination: http://www.chicagopublicradio.org/Content.aspx?audioID=32348
I do want to second Ari's nomination of ANZAC biscuits and Tasmanian leatherwood honey. Both are outstanding. I'd add to the recommended olive oils Red Island, which actually does come from Australia.