Food

Coffee Culture

May 4 2009, 8:19 am

For Better Coffee, Store Your Beans

baldwin apr30 storing coffee.jpg

Photo by Frank Jakobi/Flickr CC


Storage is a complicated subject. This is a quick overview, and there are some specific circumstances that will be neglected. We'll pick those up later or in response to comments.

Once you have your coffee beans at home, the best indicator of freshness is aroma (at room temperature) and taste. A visual indicator is the amount of "bloom" when you pour the water over the coffee. Coffee roasting creates significant amounts of carbon dioxide within the bean. Grinding releases the CO2, which carries the aroma into the room. (Smells great, doesn't it?) The remaining gas will be liberated as foam during brewing. Generally, the more bloom there is, the fresher the beans. (Geek note: the volume of CO2 varies among varieties. The range is three to 20 times the bean volume.)

All coffee is fresh when it comes out of the roaster. What happens later changes the freshness profile profoundly. The very best practice, of course, is to buy your beans weekly at a reputable shop that carefully monitors its inventories and refuses to sell beans past several days out of the roaster.

Oxygen, time, and temperature are the enemies of all food freshness, and oxidation accelerates with higher temperature and slows with lower temperature. I recommend the refrigerator for coffee beans that will be drunk within a week or two. [Curator's note: Unlike Jerry, I'm not a refrigerator guy--ground coffee is an ancestor of baking soda as a refrigerator deodorizer, but if you've got it in an airtight container, you'll at least avoid onion-y coffee.] For longer storage, use the freezer--but observe the caveats below.

N.B. If you are making coffee in an espresso machine, leave the coming day's coffee at room temperature, sealed, away from heat. Cold coffee, directly from the refrigerator, will chill the brew, diminish the crema and inhibit good extraction. For all other methods--assuming proper brewing temperature of 195 to 205° Fahrenheit--brewing the coffee from the refrigerator will not significantly affect the brew temperature adversely because of the high ratio of hot water to coffee grounds.
Unscrupulous roasters have been known to load their coffee with as much as ten percent moisture to increase their profits.
Use the freezer for longer storage. For example, if you bring home a pound of beans, divide it into weekly amounts to store separately. For this week's coffee, leave it at cool room temperature or seal it and put in the refrigerator. The remaining weeks can be put into the freezer to be removed a week at a time.

I don't recommend taking the coffee back and forth from the freezer to the brewer each day because this coffee soon begins to taste flat. I suspect this is the result of condensation on the beans when they are opened in a much warmer atmosphere. The repeated condensation being absorbed into the coffee is what seems to cause the negative effect. [Curator's note: I think it goes flat very soon! The open question is distribution of the flavor-bearing oils in beans and whether after freezing, in which the oil is redistributed, it ever diffuses to where it was in the beans; for more on the discussion, see my chapter on storage in the Baldwin-filled Joy of Coffee.]

The optimal storage vessel should be constructed of aluminum or Mylar foil, backed with a flexible poly sheet. This is similar to the bags that many roasters use. At home I store coffee in such a bag or double--even triple--layers of poly bags. I roll the bag tight to squeeze as much air as possible from the bag to minimize the oxygen available for the coffee to interact with. I close the bag with the wire closure or a rubber band to keep it tight. [Curator's note: I still use what I think of as the Jerry Method: Scrunch that bag just as far down and as airtight as you can get it, a la the Right Way to squeeze a toothpaste tube, and if the wire closure is askew or missing, as by the end of a bag it almost always is, fish out a rubber band.]

I don't use airtight jars because of the larger quantity of air trapped inside the jar. Coffee and oxygen interact in the first few hours of their exposure to one another. In a sealed bag of coffee, oxygen can be measured just after packaging. By several hours later, oxygen is no longer detectable because it has already oxidized some of those aromatic volatiles. But it's a bad idea: the damage is done. For short-term storage, say a week of bean storage, you may not notice the effect. I haven't tried the containers with the pseudo vacuum pump for coffee because I never thought they had much effect for wine. (Lower temperature and full containers work best for preserving opened wine, too.)



The temperatures in a refrigerator and a freezer are geared to the freezing point of water. The only part of the coffee that actually freezes is the moisture content; the rest continues its organic processing, especially in the presence of water or oxygen, though the process slows at lower temperatures.

Few specialty roasters leave significant moisture in their coffee. The residual moisture in a coffee will be about two percent if a water quench is not used at the end of the roast (which is Peet's Coffee's practice). As roasters do use water quench, the moisture level rises. (Unscrupulous roasters have been known to load their coffee with as much as 10 percent moisture to increase their profits.) But using a water quench does diminish the complexity of the flavor of the coffee. Although our dry roast practice makes roasting more challenging, the preservation of flavor is definitely worth the effort.

Geek note: lower MVTR (moisture vapor transmission rate) and O2 permeability rate (standard industry benchmarks) of packaging films and laminations indicate superior packaging. Obviously, a jar has superior barrier characteristics. A collapsible jar would be perfect, but I don't know of one.

And don't even think about buying ground coffee. [Curator's note: I'm not telling Jerry how we order our weekly In Mourning For Sierra Dorada blend--a new combination just yesterday. But he'd approve, at least, of the constant refreshing and experimentation.]

Comments (10)

Jerry,

Since you do so much grinding at home, I'm wondering if you could recommend a decent/reasonably priced grinder.

The girlfriend and I have a Krups grinder (http://bit.ly/4pI4B) that I *feel* like works pretty well, but, I'm always wondering if there just might be something better out there. For instance, I never really know what grind setting (1 through 9, I believe) I should use, as it seems like it's kinda an arbitrary scale.

Also, in terms of storage, how do you feel about the large electric machines that grind and brew a single cup at a time, where the beans are housed in some compartment in said machine? I suppose it all depends on how much coffee you drink, and how quickly you go through the beans, eh?

coffee man (Replying to: mrhaydel)

Having worked for a artisan coffee roaster for the last ten years http://www.gourmetcoffeeonline.com we have always recommended the 21 day gourmet coffee rule. Which is always buy fresh roasted coffee that has a roasted on date. Always buy whole bean coffee. Only buy what you can use in 21 days. We do not recommend freezing or refrigeration due to coffee being like baking soda and sucking up all the odors in to the coffee. Best storage is an air tight container, solid color so not light get in. Stored in a cool dark place. Follow these rules your coffee will always be good as long as it is coming from a good source.

Coffee Man

While it sounds extreme, there is a sizable population who roast their own beans.

Or who roast our own beans.

I have been roasting my own beans (and baking my own bread, and making my own sauerkraut) for some years now.

It is not hard, and you can even do it with a hot air popcorn popper, but there are many purpose built appliances that roast coffee now.

The freshness is unbeatable. And there are many places to buy green beans online.

Are you talking about Peet's Sierra Dorado? That was my fave too. What do you get now that copies it?

re: Freshness, I have a good friend who buys *green* coffee beans to roast himself at home. There are sites for doing just that (coffeeproject.com is the one he uses), and, depending on how far you want to go, you can always buy trees and grow your own beans (!)

As I am the proud owner of a FoodSaver vacuum sealing system, I store my beans in one of their containers, in the refrigerator. It evacuates nearly all the air, so the beans never oxidize, and since they're not kept at freezer temps, they don't develop condensation. I've kept beans for months that way with no appreciable loss of quality.

Jerry,
Does it make any sense that some beans may need a little time to breathe before using?
Last week I purchased a single-origin espresso from Intelligentsia.
It the flavors seemed to come together in the cup the longer the beans sat in the hopper. (The pound of beans lasted a week.)
Keeping (to the best of my ability) all factors the same: grind, dose, tamp...the shots only seemed to get better later in the week.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
David

I passed along this column to a friend of mine, who runs his own coffee-roasting business, and these were his comments:
I remain a proponent of keeping beans out of the fridge and freezer. Period. Storing beans sealed in a cool, dark place has served me well for a lifetime of experimentation. When I say well, I mean that this storage method has done a great job of preserving freshly roasted coffee aromas and flavors for a solid couple of weeks.
Anything beyond a couple of weeks just isn't freshly roasted anymore. Moreover, any other method of storing roasted coffee is riddled with caveats.
If I was pushed, storing roasted coffee beyond a couple of weeks could be addressed by sealing freshly roasted beans in an hermetic, opaque environment and freezing them. When removing the beans from the freezer, particular attention MUST be given to allowing the contents to come to room temperature before breaking the seal on the package. I would suggest that freezing only be resorted to in an extreme case, say when one somehow ended up with a surplus of roasted coffee.
Even with these precautions, the once frozen coffee beans would not smell, taste, or act quite like freshly roasted beans any more and they would loose their favorable aromas and flavors more rapidly than freshly roasted coffee due to the added cellular abuse of the freezing process. It could be an acceptable way of putting coffee up for a month or two, or longer at temperatures below -10F. Do be aware that if the seal is broken during the freezing process, or the beans are exposed to ambient air that is warmer than the beans themselves, the coffee will more than likely be terribly stale within hours of being removed from the freezer. I could add numerous other ifs, ors, and buts, but I hope this gets my recommended approach across.

Peet's Sierra Dorada was my favorite, too! Especially the decaf version. Still haven't found anything like it at Peet's, so I've moved to another coffee provider!

I was a Sierra Dorada fan for several years. I too left Pete's for several months after it disappeared. Somehow heard about New Guinea Highlands. Excellent Coffee! I'm back in Pete's fold and rarely miss the Sierra Dorada.

Best,
Kingdex

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