Health

Recipe: Kourambiedes (Roasted Almond Cookies)

By Aglaia Kremezi

Traditionally prepared for Christmas, kourambiedes are delicate melt-in- your- mouth cookies. You find similar cookies in various Middle Eastern countries, often sprinkled with rose water or citrus flower just before they are rolled in confectioner's sugar. The old island recipes called for lard, as butter was not a common ingredient of the Mediterranean countries. There are also recipes for kourambiedes made entirely with olive oil. Today the cookies are prepared exclusively with butter, but I love this old version.

Makes 36 cookies

•1/2 cup lard or butter, softened
    •1/2 cup light olive oil (not extra virgin)
    •1/3 cup confectioners' sugar, plus about 2 cups to sprinkle on the cookies
    •1 egg yolk
    •Zest of 1 lemon
    •3 tablespoons ouzo, Pernod, or any other anise-flavored liqueur
    •3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
    •1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
    •1/2 to 2/3 teaspoon ground white pepper (optional)
    •1 cup coarsely ground toasted almonds (NOT skinned)

In a food processor or electric mixer, beat the lard or butter and olive oil with 1/3 cup confectioners' sugar for about 6 minutes. Add the egg yolk, lemon zest, and ouzo and process for 2 to 3 minutes more. Sift the flour with the baking powder and the pepper, if using. Fit the processor with a dough hook and gradually add the flour. Process the mixture for 2 to 3 minutes, only until a soft dough forms. Add the almonds and process until the dough is smooth again, about 1 to 2 minutes more.

Preheat the oven to 350º F.

Shape tablespoons of dough into round, oval, or crescent-shaped cookies, and place on a cookie sheet, leaving about 1 inch between the cookies so that they won't stick together as they expand. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until very pale golden. Cool for 10 minutes.

Spread 1 cup confectioners' sugar on a large serving plate. Very carefully, because they break easily, roll each cookie in the sugar, and place on a rack to cool. Proceed with all the cookies, adding more sugar to the plate as necessary. Finally, sift additional sugar on top of the cookies and let rest for 3 to 4 hours, or overnight. Carefully pack the cookies in boxes, spreading a piece of wax paper between each layer. Roasted Almond Cookies will keep for 2 months or longer.

Aglaia Kremezi writes about food in Greek, European, and American magazines, publishes books about Mediterranean cooking in the U.S. and Greece, and teaches cooking classes.