Recipe: Pumpkin Pie from Lesbos

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An unusually deep flavored sweet pumpkin pie from the large island of the northeastern Aegean. The cheese used in Lesbos is the local ladotyri (cheese aged submerged in olive oil). Parmigiano Reggiano is a good substitute.

For a 13 X 9 X 2 inch rectangular pan, or an equivalent 15 cup round pan.

• 6 cups grated pumpkin (2 pounds), or squash like Calabanza, or 5 cups of any other grated pumpkin and two yams, baked and mashed
    • Pinch of salt
    • 1 cup sugar
    • 1/2 cup medium grain rice
    • 1/2 cup light olive oil, or a combination of olive and sunflower oil, plus more to brush the phyllo
    • 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
    • 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
    • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
    • Pinch of nutmeg
    • A few grindings of black pepper
    • 1 pound thick commercial phyllo
    • Confectioner's sugar and ground cinnamon for sprinkling

At least 3 hours and preferably the night before making the pie, sprinkle the grated pumpkin with a little salt and a pinch of sugar, toss and let it wilt in the refrigerator, in a colander placed over a bowl to collect the juices. When ready to make the pie, press well to drain the grated pumpkin, reserving the liquid in the bowl. In a large bowl mix the pumpkin with the rice, olive oil, cheese, walnuts, cinnamon, nutmeg, and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 400 F.

Brush the pan with olive oil and lay 5 to 6 sheets of commercial phyllo, brushing each individually with olive oil as you layer, and leave about 1 inch overhang at the rims of the pan. Pour in the filling, smooth with a spatula and cover with the rest of the phyllo sheets, brushing each layer with olive oil. Crimp the top and bottom layers of phyllo, making a neat 'cord' around the edge of the pan. Press with the tines of a fork to prevent burning.

Brush the top liberally with olive oil, and with a sharp knife score the top phyllo layers all the way to the filling. Brush with the reserved pumpkin juices and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350, brush again with the pumpkin juices and bake another 45-50 minutes, or until the top turns golden brown and the filling is set. Turn off the heat, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let stand in the warm oven another 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool for 15 minutes and sprinkle with confectioner's sugar and cinnamon.

Leave to cool completely before cutting pieces to serve.

Sweet Kolokythopita keeps well at cool room temperature for up to 3 days.

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Aglaia Kremezi writes about food in Greek, European, and American magazines, publishes books about Mediterranean cooking in the U.S. and Greece, and teaches cooking classes.