SLIDE SHOW: From Roadside to Dinner Plate

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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi

Ancient Greeks particularly admired the sweet succulent sonchus , thinking that its milky sap indicated that this was a particularly nourishing green.

Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


Greens pies are popular in Greek cuisine. See the next slide for one of the ingredients commonly used in the dish.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


Kafkalithra (burnet) is now cultivated because it is an important ingredient of the spinach or mixed greens pies eaten all over Greece.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


We harvest the greens by cutting the root at the base of the leaves, being careful not to uproot the plant. Wild greens have incredibly long, woody roots, which go very deep into the soil to find moisture. If properly picked, the plants will grow again the following year.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi

We remove the blanched greens with a fork, and never drain the pot in a colander. There is always some sand at the bottom, even if we wash the horta meticulously under running water.

Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi

Every time I boil horta I put aside bottles of the broth in my refrigerator to warm up and enjoy all week.

Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


When I get tired of drinking the broth this way, I use it instead of water in my bread dough.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


Horta are most commonly enjoyed boiled as salad or as a side dish simply dressed with fresh lemon and fruity olive oil.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


Tsigarelli of Corfu: the blanched greens are sautéed with plenty of garlic and hot pepper, and often served with polenta.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi

Here, horta is again dressed simply, with fresh lemon and good olive oil.

Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


I add the tender shoots of the sweet and fragrant wild chrysanthemum to a salad of boiled bitter dandelion, gathered from my garden.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


The tender shoots of vrouva , or wild mustard, another bitter green Greeks love.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi

The fresh shoots of mignonette, vromohorto , literally "stinky green," are popular only in Kea.

Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


Sea lavender is grown as ornamental plant, but Greek women forage for the lush fresh provatsa leaves. See how they put it to use in the next slide.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


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Photo by Aglaia Kremezi


Tangy sea lavender braised with pork and finished with egg and lemon sauce.


Aglaia Kremezi samples wild greens like mignonette and sea lavender in


Aglaia Kremezi writes about food in Greek, European, and American magazines, publishes books about Mediterranean cooking in the U.S. and Greece, and teaches cooking classes.